Trail-less Hiking

The destination was a hike called the Eye of the Dragon. With a name like the Eye of the Dragon, it has to be a fantastic place, eh? The day started out with a Moose sighting on the little pond near my cabin. Not a bad way to start a day. We hopped the bus to go down the road in the morning. 

Right before being dropped off at our hike what did we see? Why a cluster of 3 grizzly bears! We heard there were bears in the area. I guess this way we knew where they were and could avoid them. We jumped off the bus, skirting around the bears at a safe distance and with caution. The mountains were shining and clouds opening up for the hike. The forecast for the day was looking good.

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Off we were~! Hiking on the tundra with destination in sight. Admiring wildflowers and the landscape. So green and lush. Yet the mountains ahead were a beautiful red/rust and grey color with streaks of white snow coming down. The contrast was stunning!

In the distance we saw something moving. It was a wolf! It was just walking right in front of us. Not paying much attention to us, looking like it had better places to be. So cool! What better wildlife sightings could you ask for? Moose, bear, wolf!

Moving on we started moving up the mountain. Hiking without trails in the tundra is wonderful. You can just go where you want. In a group you are able to walk side by side. Finding a route that suits your fancy. 

The mountains were getting closer. We were on the dragon, approaching the eye. The eye of the dragon is a small lake nestled in the mountain. A pristine blue and green clear lake. After enjoying the lake for a few minutes, we decided to go further up the mountain.

We started climbing of the spine of the dragon.

Climbing up the mountain was pretty cool. Wouldn't you know when I got to the top, my camera battery was dead! Urgh!

Heading down the mountain we followed a chute where we skipped around a creek and slid down snow. We  rushed down the mountain so we could catch the last bus home. We barely made it. We were on our way back home to the end of the road. Even made it back in time for dinner.

Denali National Park

Denali National Park is expansive. It is 6 million acres of protected land, larger than the state of Massachusetts. Most of the park remains unspoiled wilderness. It was made a national park is 1917. To say you could live here your whole life and only see a portion of it is an understatement.

In the park you have the taiga and tundra. Taiga is a Russian word for the northern evergreen forest, refering to the little bit of tree growth up in the Artic Circle. Tundra is an open and vast landscape of dwarfed shrubs and small flowers. The tundra starts at above the tree line (about 2,700 feet) To hike on the Tundra is fantastic. It is wide open and you have spring in your step. Below the tundra and soil is the Permafrost. Permafrost is frozen ground, which has been that way for thousands of years. Plants have to be tough to survive this landscape. But somehow some 650 species of flowering plants have adapted and found a way.

Denali is home to the Big 5 animals. Bears, Caribou, Moose, Wolf, and Dall sheep. Other smaller mammals in the park include fox, weasel, wolverine, lynx, snowshoe hare, marmot, ground squirrel, pika, porcupine, beaver, shrew, vole, and lemming. In total there are 37 mammal species in the park.

The landscape's most impressive feature is the mountain: Denali (aka Mount Mckinley). There has always been a debate over the name of the mountain. While the official name is Mount Mckinley, locals and natives prefer the Athabaskan name of Denali.  The Athabascans say that Denali was created by their first ancestor while in battle. He turned his enemies' ocean waves of anger into mountains. The largest mountain he named Denali, meaning the "High One".

But in 1896 a gold rush reporter, William Dickey, named the mountain after presidential candidate Mckinley, who happened to be a supporter of his favorite issue (gold). But the US Board of Geographic Names dictates that no living person can be commemorated. But when the President was assassinated in 1901 the name change become official. Throughout the years many Alaskans and mountain climbers have lobbied to have the name changed back to Denali. In 1975, the Alaska legislature made an official request but it has never been accepted because Congress always has pending legislation to keep the name. It is currently at a stalemate.

Denali is the highest mountain on the North American continent. Looking at the mountain from Wonder Lake (elevation of 2,000 feet) up to the summit of 20,320 feet is a greater vertical relief than that of Mount Everest! Permanent snowfields cover 75% of the mountain.

Only one (mostly dirt) road going through the park. In 1972, to protect visitors and reduce threats to wildlife a bus system was put in use to travel the road. Which is the main way of travel in the park today. I live (and play) at almost the end of the road near Wonder Lake.

There are only a few designated trails in the park. But the majority of the park is trail-less hiking. You just go. It seems a little strange at first. Routing skills, including map and compass are very important. But with such a wide open landscape, finding your way isn't that difficult. Every hike is a true adventure.

The other day I finally got a chance to travel up the road to hike and see more of this vast park. The hike was called Eye of the Dragon. And it was a marvelous day of exploring......

Poets Say It Best

John Muir. Lover of wilderness and beautiful places. Supporter of the national parks. Poet and writer of magical words. Upon coming to Alaska he saw something amazing, indescribable, and transfixing. Yet he uses words of eloquence and wonder that PERFECTLY describes what you see and feel in Alaska:

"To the lover of pure wilderness Alaska is one of the most wonderful  countries in the world. No excusrion that I know of may be made into any other American wilderness where so marvelous an abundance of noble, new-born scenery is so charmingly brought to view. 


Day after day, we seemed to float in true fairyland, each succeeding view seeming more and more beautiful, the one we chanced to have before us the most surprisingly beautiful of all. Never before this had I been embosomed in scenery so hopelessly beyond description. To sketch picturesque bits, definitly bounded, is comparatively easy- a lake in the woods, a glacier meadow, or a cascade in its dell; or even a grand master view of mountains beheld from some commanding outlook after climbing from height to height above the forests. 


These may be attempted, and more or less telling pictures made of them; but in these landscapes there is such indefinite, on-leading expansiveness, such a multitude of features without apparent redundance, their lines graduating delicately into one another in endless succession, while the whole is so fine, so tender, so ethereal, that all penwork seems hopelessly unavailable. Tracing shining ways through fjord and sound., past forests and waterfalls, islands and mountains far azure headlands, it seems as if surely we must at length reach the very paradise of the poets, the adobe of the blessed."


-John Muir on his trip to Alaska

The Beauty Below

Wanderlust is the word of the day. A day for exploring the "great, fresh, unblighted, unredeemed, wilderness" (John Muir).  It wasn't a perfect day, overcast skies. But considering the last couple of days we have had a lot of rain, I had to take the window of opportunity to get out. 

One amazing thing about this place is even when the mountain isn't out, there is still a lot to see if you look. Most people always look to the mountain for inspiration. But in fact the small things are just as amazing and beautiful.

If I were more knowledgeable I would tell you the names of these things and what they are. But a rose is still a rose by any other name right?

Moose Creek in background

The tundra floor is covered in all different kinds of moss and lichen. It is beautiful. A lot of colors, sizes, and shapes. Sometimes the moss would be a foot deep! When you step on it, it is so spongy and squishy. It is one of the coolest feelings to just walk out on the stuff. You have bounce and spring in your step!  Feels like you are walking on pillows.

Made it to the top of the ridge! With view of wonder lake and some antlers.

I am restored in beauty. I am restored in beauty. I am restored in beauty. -Navajo Prayer

Flowers in bloom. 

The trail was all sloshy and wet. And I LOVED IT! It was so awesome to step in the gush. You would sink down into it and it would make a funny noise. Nature has a way of bringing you back to the basics of those simple things that make you happy.

"I was up to my knees in the world" -Annie Dillard

Take the time to look at the ground and see what amazing things are happening down there! It's another world to discover!

"The one who meditates on the Divine is like a tree planted by streams of water." -Psalm 1

All the raindrops and dew on the flowers and plants is simply splendid. Makes the plants, flowers, and trees glisten and shine.

"When words become unclear, I shall focus with photography. When images become inadequate I shall be content with silence." -Ansel Adams

Open your eyes to nature. Take a moment to see the beauty in the world, big and small.

"To see a WORLD in a grain of sand, and a HEAVEN in a wild flower." -William Blake

Re-Energize

I finally had some time off to relax and explore. Yesterday I had a day of rejuvenation and relaxation. I slept, watched a movie, and took it easy. Working 10 hour days tend to get you a little tired. But it was fantastic to take my first day to recharge. But like a battery (and bunny) you need to take some time to re-energize your body and spirit! 

My second day off was a different story. Started it out ACTIVE and went for a hike up the ridge. The ridge hike is a local hike right behind camp where you get AWESOME views of the mountains and the area. It is pretty much straight uphill. Definitely a workout. While the mountain wasn't in view today, it was still a beautiful day to be out hiking. Exploring my little corner of Denali :) 

Right Corner is Camp. Left Upper is Wonder Lake.
Denali is hidden behind clouds in upper left. 

The flowers were out in BLOOM! The tundra bed is a full of so much growth and color.

I've taken a liken to the lichen 

Then this ground squirrel came around.

Stuffin his face with flowers :)

Finally the TOP!

The mountain playing peek a boo. 

Overall I had a lovely couple of days off. Ready for the excitement of another work week in Denali....

The Mountain

It's been a busy week of training and exploring but I finally feel adjusted and in the groove. It is a beautiful place here. One phrase you hear a lot is "the mountain is out". Referring to Denali being in view. Practically every time you see the mountain it takes your breath away. It fills up the sky and provides a backdrop like none other. Even without the mountain the landscape is stunning. On rainy days watching the fog and mist drape the mountains and hills nearby. It is SO wide open, yet so cozy. The word PRISTINE wilderness comes to mind here. WILD and untouched.

The other phrase you learn is "the mosquitoes are out". That one is not pleasant. Run, get away! Put on your bug spray.  Living with a bug net over your bed is a different experience. So is having your bathroom be an outhouse. Although this is no regular outhouse. This one comes with a GRAND view!  It's all a part of the glamorous lifestyle. :)

Weather here changes every few minutes.You have to be prepared with layers and gear. One minute it is raining, but wait a few minutes or move a few feet over, and the sun is shining. The one constant is the light. It is ALWAYS light. Go to bed: light. Wake up: light. I haven't seen any darkness yet.  Hopefully when the darkness comes, so will the Aurora Borealis......